![]() ![]() This will cause low boost and a loss of power. This indicates excessive wear in the turbo bearings and means a turbo rebuild is imminent.Īctuator hose cracked or split. If you can get the owners permission to remove the air filter hose, check signs of the rotating compressor wheel making contact with or rubbing the housing. Movement of the turbocharger’s rotating shaft, up and down, is an indication of turbo bearing wear. Cars fitted with a boost gauge tend to have had the boost pressure increased.Ĭompressor wheel lift. A sign of cost cutting when servicing a car. This leads to warping and cracking of the exhaust manifold and turbine housing. An incorrectly serviced engine can run weak, causing excessive heat build-up in the exhaust. Unfiltered air entering a turbo will cause damage to the compressor wheel.Įxhaust leaks. Signs of oil staining on the air filter may indicate engine wear. Signs of a recently increased or reduced boost pressure adjustment or problems with the turbo.Īir filter condition. ![]() Uprated actuators are fitted to operate at a higher boost pressure. Indicates that other engine modifications may have been performed. This may have damaged the turbo.ĭump valve. Turbo has been operating at a higher boost pressure that it was originally designed for. May indicate poor workmanship.īleed valve on actuator hose. Poor alignment indicates a badly repaired turbo. Leaking water connections.Īlignment of hoses and connections. Water staining around the turbo bearing housing. Could be trying to hide a poor quality turbo repair. Signs of a poor turbo rebuild or a worn turbo. Has the turbo been replaced before and by whom? Be suspicious if a reputable company did not carry out the repair. Proof of a reputable service history.Īftermarket turbo remanufacturer’s nameplate. Very important, especially for a turbo engine. Check the following.Įngine oil condition. If it’s a dirty car, offer to clean it – whilst cleaning it you’ll spot scratches and problems.įirst check under the bonnet. The EP82’s mainly the Mk1 versions suffered from pealing lacquer on the roof and bonnet so that one thing to check carefully.Ĭheck the car has been under sealed in Japan they don’t use the harsh road salt we do so the under seal often isn’t up to the standard on European cars this will eventually lead to the car rusting quicker so it a good idea to check it’s been done. If repaired correctly then there is nothing to worry about. One thing that is very important is too look for poor fitting panels and uneven gaps a lot of the cars that go through the auctions in Japan have had minor accidents but there often isn’t any record of them. You will often find small marks and scratches from the import/shipping process. If the car is wet, then dry it as a wet car hides paint defects The coins can be used to judge panel gaps – slide a coin down a panel gap, if it stops then the panel gap is tightening up. Use the magnet to check for filler, which is often used by cheap repairs to mask damage. This is a good place to start remember the age of the car you are looking at. This is why for the purpose of this buyer’s guide we will just be looking at common problems found with the starlet and things to look out for when going to view. Importing a car yourself can save you quite a lot of money but it is far from simple. In fact, the Japanese car owner must prove that he/she has sufficient parking space for each car they register. The cost of renewing the ‘Shaken’ is relatively high as the Japanese Governments policy is to reduce car ownership due to the limited space available. Therefore the Japanese generally sell or part-exchange their car as a period of ‘Shaken’ expires. After this has expired the ‘Shaken’ must be renewed every 2 years throughout the ownership of the vehicle. It consists of a series of safety inspections combined with compulsory insurance, weight and vehicle tax. ’Shaken’ is a strict car registration scheme which operates in Japan. Intense competition means that models are constantly being upgraded or re-designed, and many extras are fitted as standard, which would add thousands to the price of a UK car. As a result their is virtually no domestic used car market in Japan, and a rapid depreciation in car prices. Due to the limited space for road vehicles in Japan strict regulations along with other factors have shaped the market to favour part-exchange towards the purchase of new models. Japan has the largest domestic car market in the Far East, with major car manufacturers such as Toyota, Nissan, Honda, Mitsubishi and Mazda proving popular across the world as well as Japan. You be lucky to ever get 190hp from a stock ct9.Īll Turbo starlets are imports unless it’s a UK car that’s been converted.įirst off here is some background into imported cars from Japan: ![]()
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